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Anti-Aging Extracts - Bioactive Non-Denatured Anti-Aging

KNOWLEDGE CENTER

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Anti-Aging and Skin Care Benefits of Non-Denatured Dill Seed Extract

Authors:

Dr. Razak Clinical Pharmacy Scientist

Bill Soukup formulator

 

Article at a Glance

·Elastin and collagens are the primary proteins responsible for maintaining the structure and elasticity of the skin as well as keeping skin firm and supple.

·Natural extracts like dill seed extract, work in two ways, either they stop the destruction of elastin and collagen, or they help in the increased production of both essential skin care proteins.

·Dill seed extract stimulates elastin and collagen synthesis by activating dermal fibroblasts.

·Dill seed extract also increases the production of the precursor of elastin, tropoelastin.

·Dill seed extract helps increase expression of Lysyl oxidase-like enzymes in skin that generates elastin and help rebuild skin’s structural integrity.

·Over 900 extracts were tested and, dill seed was one of a few that contained the Lysyl oxidase-like enzyme so beneficial to elastin.

·Dill seed oil, commonly and incorrectly referred to in blogs, does not contain the Lysyl oxidase enzyme that stimulates growth.  Oils do not contain enzymes which are proteins.

·Denatured dill seed extracts will not contain the Lysyl oxidase enzyme.

·Several scientific studies have shown that topical application of formulas with dill may help to reinforce skin elasticity and firmness, thus improving the overall appearance of skin. As a result, the benefits of dill extract are often infused in anti-aging skincare formulas.

·Due to the anti-microbial activity, dill destroys the micro-organism and thus prevents the destruction of beauty proteins.

 

Elastin and collagens are the primary proteins responsible for maintaining the structure and elasticity of the skin as well as keeping skin firm and supple. Both proteins decrease with age, leading to the shrinkage and wrinkles of the skin.

Natural extracts like non-denatured dill seed extract, work in two ways, either they stop the destruction of elastin and collagen, or they help in the increased production of both essential skincare proteins.

Dill seed extract stimulates elastin and collagen synthesis by activating dermal fibroblasts according to a 2006 study in Experimental Dermatology. Fibroblasts synthesize collagen, elastin, and keratin in the dermis. They assist in wound healing and the prevention of skin aging.

Note:

  • Dill seed extract is different from dill seed oil. Most research was conducted on dill seed extract. Many bloggers incorrectly refer to dill seed oil for elastin and collagen regeneration.  Dill seed oil does not contain the Lysyl oxidase enzyme that stimulates collagen and elastin growth.  Oils do not contain enzymes which are proteins. 
  • Denatured dill seed extracts will not contain the Lysyl oxidase enzyme. Heat at 106° Fahrenheit, 40° Celsius breaks down proteins. Alcohol at any level denatures proteins.

Dill seed extract also increases the production of the precursor of elastin, tropoelastin. Tropoelastin molecules bind together to create elastin.  Tropoelastin is a water-soluble molecule with a molecular weight of approximately 72,000 Daltons. Multiple tropoelastin molecules covalently bind together with crosslinks to form the protein elastin that is very prevalent in the body. There is only one gene for this molecule

Over 900 extracts were tested and, dill seed was one of a few that contained the Lysyl oxidase-like enzyme so beneficial to elastin.  It seems dill extract helps increase expression of enzymes in the skin that generates elastin and help rebuild skin’s structural integrity. Dill may prove to be one of the few plants extracts whose anti-aging abilities influence elastin. In 2006, Cenizo et al. set out to induce elastogenesis (production of elastin) in adult dermal fibroblasts by targeting Lysyl oxidase (LOX) and Lysyl oxidase-like (LOXL) enzymes, which are responsible for elastin crosslinking. LOX and LOXL have been identified as the rate-limiting step in synthesizing mature elastin in adult skin. The expression of LOXL decreases with age. They concluded that LOXL is a suitable target for stimulating elastogenesis, and that dill extract appears to foster such activity.

Sohm, assessed the capacity of dill extract to enhance skin elasticity in vitro and in vivo. He reported that skin firmness and elasticity did indeed improve significantly in subjects treated for 56 days with a 1% topical application of dill extract, compared with subjects treated with placebo. Most volunteers treated with dill extract identified marked enhancements in elasticity, firmness, and jawline slackness. After 84 days, subjects treated with dill also exhibited significantly reduced mean wrinkle area and length compared with those taking the placebo formulation. The greater elasticity might be attributed to increased LOX expression stimulated by dill extract application, though this study did not measure LOX or LOXL.

Several other scientific studies have shown that topical application of formulas with dill may help to reinforce skin elasticity and firmness, thus improving the overall appearance of skin. As a result, the benefits of dill extract are often infused in anti-aging skincare formulas. Furthermore, dill extract is commonly used as a fragrance component in cosmetic and personal care products such as lotions and creams.

Dill seed extract also has the anti-microbial activity. Certain pathogenic microbes cause some skin diseases and destroy the natural beauty proteins that’s elastin and collagen. Due to the anti-microbial activity, dill destroys the micro-organism and thus prevents the destruction of beauty proteins.

References

  • Lawless, J. The Encyclopedia of essential oils: the complete guide to the use of aromatic oils in aromatherapy, herbalism, health, and well being. Conari Press (2013)
  • Sohm, B. et al. Evaluation of the efficacy of a dill extract in vitro and in vivo. International journal of cosmetic science 33.2, 157-163 (2011)
  • Khan, I. and Abourashed, E. Leung’s encyclopedia of common natural ingredients: used in food, drugs and cosmetics. John Wiley & Sons (2011)
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How do extracts benefit anti-aging products?

Created by Dr. Razak clinical Pharmacy scientist

Bill Soukup formulator

Article at a Glance

 

·Aging can be natural or premature. Natural aging occurs with age, which can be slow down with natural extracts and lifestyle. Premature aging is due to bad habits, sun exposure, smoking, frequent alcohol consumption, stress, etc.

·Organic Skincare with botanical ingredients is best, such as Green Tea, Soybean. Dill seed, Damascus Rose, Hibiscus, Rosehips. Aloe Vera and Licorice Root, which provide tremendous benefits to skin and overall fitness.

·Synthetic cosmetics, in contrast to natural organic products, cause adverse effects like skin irritation, etc.

 

Aging is a natural process that continues over time. There are two types of aging, that’s premature and natural aging. Premature aging is due to bad habits, sun exposure, smoking, frequent alcohol consumption, stress, etc. While natural aging is a process that runs out at any time with age, our aging can’t be stopped. However, we can slow down the aging process by adopting a good lifestyle, staying out of the sun, and healthy eating and living habits. Skin aging can also slow down via well-made plant extracts and well-made cosmetic formulations.

As we age collagen and elastin become fragmented and thick, indicative of the cross-linking that causes sagging and wrinkle formation.  The primary culprits are dehydration, inflammation, loss of moisture, and the slowdown of cell turnover. 

Hyaluronic acid, besides elastin and collagen, is a natural component of the skin and maintains the elasticity and firmness of the skin. Hyaluronic acid is a carbohydrate found naturally in all of our body’s tissues, 50% of the Hyaluronic Acid in our body is in our skin. As we age, the natural Hyaluronic Acid in our skin decreases, making our skin look dry and bumpy. This leads to a loss of strength and flexibility. Hyaluronic acid can improve the moisture content of the skin while strengthening the outer layers of the skin. This makes our skin soft, supple, and desirable.  There are no known herbs that contain Hyaluronic Acid, or specific foods, however, some plant material may stimulate the body’s natural production of Hyaluronic Acid. 

The signs of aging are into two groups. Early and advanced; The first signs of aging can be treated with a combination of anti-aging products, while the more advanced signs of aging require specialized and modified treatment because they developed with time.

This is scientifically true that natural skin care products are better than other skincare products containing chemicals because they provide the appropriate essence to our body, which is desirable for anti-aging effects. Bioactive (living) non-denatured (killed) botanical extracts have many know and unknown benefits for skincare. Over 90% of the ingredients of an organic skincare product come from plant sources. Usually, natural skincare products do not cause any irritation or side effect. Natural skin care products are safer and more effective than synthetic skincare products. The best skincare products are those that offer many benefits by moisturizing the skin, reducing inflammation and giving the skin a youthful look. Some of the botanical properties that benefit our skin needs are peptides, vitamin A, B, C, E, and K. It’s necessary to avoid synthetic chemicals and alcohol in any skincare products we choose because they dry and irritate the skin and alcohol denatures the natural constituents of extracts. Organic skincare with botanical ingredients is best, such as Green Tea extract, Hempseed extract, Soybean. Dill seed extract, Rosehips, Aloe Vera and Licorice Root extract, etc. which provide tremendous benefits to skin and overall fitness.

Here are the few examples of the mechanism of how natural extracts, impart anti-aging effects.

  • Hempseed, Green tea and Soybean extracts contain antioxidants, Vitamin A, C, and E, which improve the tone, texture, tightness, firmness, dullness, and smoothness of skin by removing the dead cells of upper skin.
  • Soybean extract has phytoestrogens; genistein and daidzein that stimulate the production of elastin. Soybean is produced from the seeds of the soybean plant. Organic soybean oil is considered very beneficial for healthy skin. It is rich in linoleic acid, which is a type of omega-6 fatty acid, vitamins B, E and K. Properly made botanical extracts using water and glycerin will contain these oils.  Powdered extracts do not contain oils.
  • Dill seed extract stimulates elastin synthesis by activating dermal fibroblasts, as per a study conducted in 2006 in Experimental Dermatology. The dill seed extract also increases the production of the elastin precursor, tropoelastin. The tropoelastin molecules come together to create elastin.
  • Dill seed extract and soybean extracts are likely the two best extracts for elastin.
  • White, Green, and Black teas contain ingredients that provide tremendous health benefits like antioxidants, a remedy for weight loss, healthy heart, mind, and skin.

 

REFERENCES

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How herbal extracts can benefit collagen?

Article at a Glance

·One-third of our total body proteins are collagen, which is an structural abundant protein.

·Collagen deficiency leads to wrinkles and lines on the skin.

·Purpose of anti-aging preparations is to either increase the production of collagen or decrease the destruction of collagen.

·There is considerable scientific evidence showing extracts can benefit collagen.

·Hempseed, Green tea and Soybean extracts contain antioxidants, Vitamin A, C, and E, which improve the tone, texture, tightness, firmness, dullness, and smoothness of skin by removing the dead cells of upper skin.

 

Collagen is an abundant structural protein comprising one-third of total protein in the body, responsible for giving the proper shape to the skin, bone, muscles, and all other connective tissues. Generally, there are two types of collagen, i.e., Endogenous collagen and Exogenous collagen. Endogenous collagen is a natural collagen which is synthesized inside the body, while exogenous collagen is synthetic collagen, which is found in certain supplements and used for medical and cosmetic purposes. Wrinkles and lines, especially on the face, are the sign of deficiency of collagen. Collagen heals the inflammatory skin conditions like acne, eczema, and psoriasis, which make the skin dull and unattractive. Collagen also speeds up wound healing and prevent cellulite and stretch mark, that will contribute to maintaining the viability and beauty of the skin. With age, there is the deficiency of the collagen, which results in wrinkles, lines, dullness, and marks on the skin.

Several of our extracts will benefit the skin’s collagen. Hemp seed extracts, green tea extracts, and soybean extracts all contribute toward collagen production by the skin in one way or the other. There are several studies available which explain how anti-aging extracts increase the production of collagen or decrease the destruction of collagen with aging.

  • Percec said that using the skin formulations containing anti-oxidants and vitamin C and E, help to fight cell damage from free radicals, which are the molecules that injure the cells and cause inflammation. Thus, it will lead to the destruction of collagen and elastin in the skin due to free radicals. Extracts (green tea, soybean, and hempseed) contain anti-oxidants and Vitamin C and E, so they will play an essential role in decreasing the destruction of collagen.
  • Hale said Retinol (Vitamin A) improves the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, thereby increasing the production of collagen. Extracts green tea, soybean, and hemp seed contain Vitamin A.
  • One study stated that extracts exfoliate skin and that exfoliation stimulates the production of collagen and elastin which are responsible for maintaining tone, texture, tightness, firmness, and smoothness of the skin.
  • Enzymes have a hand in making the skin appear healthy as they enhance the productivity of the extracts present in the solvent. The upper layer of skin is mostly composed of dead cells and contains a specific type of protein named keratin. Enzymes present in anti-aging creams degrade the keratin protein to reveal the smooth skin underneath. This whole process overall reduces the destruction of collagen and elastin.
  • Extracts made correctly will possess the bioactive compounds that encourage the production of collagen or minimize the degradation of collagen.

REFERENCES

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Role of enzymes in anti-aging products? Which solvents extract the enzymes? When enzymes are denatured?

Article at a Glance

•Enzymes are cellular catalysts which perform a number of biochemical reactions inside the body.

•Enzymes play a vital role in skincare and aging.

•Enzymes are anti-free radical agents for maintaining the tone, texture, firmness, smoothness, and tightness of the skin.

•Several scientific studies support that enzymes are essential for skincare and maintaining youthfulness.

•Enzymes are highly sensitive to excessive heat and denaturation by organic solvents such as alcohol.

•We at Anti-Aging Extracts use natural herbs which contain enzymes

•We use water and glycerin for the extraction without excessive heat, maximizing the availability of value-added constituents like enzymes in our extracts.

 

Enzymes in the human body are the catalysts (speed up reactions) at the cellular level to bring about the specific biochemical reaction. Enzymes control thousands of reactions in cells at any given moments. Enzymes are showing very remarkable benefits to the skin with particular reference to anti-aging preparations. Enzymes act as anti-free radical agents, preventing damage to the skin caused by environmental pollution, harmful microbes, smoke, sunlight, etc. Free radicals are the molecules which injure the cells and cause the inflammation, which will lead to lines and dullness on the skin.

One of the most abundant protective enzymes is superoxide dismutase, which works to protect the cell from free radicals. This enzyme, also in combination with catalase is responsible for protecting the proteins from aging due to oxidation. Proteolytic enzyme group breaks down proteins so that the skin can better absorb components of botanical extracts and promote cell growth, which makes the skin youthful. Lactoperoxidase enzymes in the skin preparation prevent the cosmetic formulations from bacterial attack. Certain enzymes are good chemical exfoliants, as they dissolve and remove dead cells from the skin surface, leaving it smooth, fresh, bright, and youthful.

Several scientific studies available which explain how the enzymes play an important role in skincare and aging.

  • Scientists at Newcastle University discovered metabolic enzymes (Mitochondrial complex) found in skin cells play an important role in cell energy level, and the levels of that enzymes decline with age resulting in wrinkles.
  • One study published in the Journal of Investigative Dermatology, the scientists studied the enzyme in skin samples of 27 donors aged 6 to 72 years old. They found that the enzyme’s activity significantly reduced with age. Thus, due to the deficiency of these enzymes, skin loses its tone, texture, and smoothness.
  • The study made by Birch-Machin states that certain enzymes contribute to making energy in the cells and when its activity is decreased, it leads to reduced bio-energy, which is found in aging skin.
  • One study state that Vitamin C in the concentration between 5 and 15% was proven to have skin anti-aging effect by inducing the production of Collagenase-1 and 3, which is an important enzyme to produce collagen.
  • Professor Birch-Machin said, “As our bodies age we see that the batteries in our cells run down, known as decreased bio-energy, an increase of harmful free radicals.

We at Anti-Aging Extracts use different botanical herbs which contains significant levels of enzymes that benefit anti-aging skincare products.

Enzymes are very sensitive bioactive compounds which are destroyed either by excessive heat  (over 106° Fahrenheit, 40° Celsius) of extraction or by denaturation caused by certain organic solvents such as alcohol. We use a water and glycerin mixture as these solvents are entirely inert, non-toxic, non-irritant, and not harmful for the value-added constituents of our extracts.

We don’t use the tincture method of extraction, which employs excessive heat that which kills the vitally important enzymes for anti-aging products.

REFERENCES

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Role of proteins in anti-aging products? Which solvents extract the proteins? When proteins are denatured?

Article at a Glance

·Proteins are macronutrients making 10 to 15% of energy needs.

·Proteins are made up of amino acids.

·Proteins have a significant role in the skincare and anti-aging process like they produce collagen and cell signaling pathways.

·Proteins are destroyed if they are extracted through alcohol because alcohol deteriorates the proteins by denaturation.

·We at Anti-Aging Extracts use water or glycerin or a mixture of both for extraction of herbal extracts.

 

Proteins are the complex structures which are made up of many smaller units called amino acids. These are linked together in a chemical bond forming a long chain. Some of these amino acids are called essential, means they are crucial for life but cannot be produced by the human body and must be gained through one’s diet. Proteins are a type of macronutrient, which, along with carbohydrates and lipids, are needed by the body to function normally. Protein generally makes up 10% to 15% of the body’s energy needs. Protein can be found in meat, eggs, pulses, nuts, fruits, and vegetables.

Proteins have a significant role in skincare. The reason why peptides (proteins) are used in anti-aging skincare products is due to their ability to increase collagen production. Collagen is the protein that gives skin a firm, smooth, youthful appearance. Natural and environmental factors, like sun exposure and free radicals, cause collagen to degrade over time. That will result in lines, wrinkles, and sagging skin. Therefore, since peptides can increase collagen production, they are able to minimize these signs of aging. While many clinical studies have proven this to be true, the mechanism(s) by which peptides accomplish this is still unclear. One theory suggests that peptides work through signaling. Cells can communicate with each other to coordinate certain actions, which is known as “cell-signaling”. Peptides can mimic certain cell-signaling processes. Specifically, peptides that are used in skincare products mimic the same peptides that you would find when collagen is broken down. According to research from the National Institutes of Health (NIH), when collagen is degraded, it produces peptides that signal skin cells to generate more collagen. Synthetic peptides have been developed that can mimic these naturally occurring peptides, thus causing your skin to warn that collagen is deteriorating, and thus in result, there is the production of peptides.

We at Anti-Aging Extracts use different botanical herbs which contains significant levels of proteins responsible for the skincare. Proteins are very sensitive bioactive compounds which are destroyed either by the excessive heat of extraction or by denaturation caused by certain organic solvents such as alcohol. We use the water and glycerin mixture as the solvents which are entirely inert, non-toxic, non-irritant and not harmful for the value-added constituents of our extracts. Besides, we don’t use the tincture method of extraction, which employs excessive heat that can damage the proteins of our extracts. 

REFERENCES

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How herbal extracts can benefit elastin?

Article at a Glance

·Elastin is the second most abundant protein in the body, which maintains the firmness of the skin.

·The dullness of skin and wrinkles are due to the deficiency of elastin.

·Purpose of anti-aging preparations is to either increase the production of collagen and elastin or decrease the destruction of collagen and elastin.

·There is considerable scientific evidence that botanical extracts can and do benefit elastin.

·Hempseed, Green tea and Soybean extracts contain antioxidants, Vitamin A, C, and E, which improve the tone, texture, tightness, firmness, dullness, and smoothness of skin by removing the dead cells of upper skin.

·Soybean extract has phytoestrogens, genistein, and daidzein which, stimulate the production of elastin and collagen.

 

Elastin is a protein in connective tissue responsible for giving structure to the skin and organs. As the name indicates, elastin enables our skin to stretch and bounce back. Elastin maintains the tightness of the skin. When the skin is pocked or pinched, it is the elastin which returns it to the original position. Elastin is the second most abundant protein in the body. As we age, the levels of elastin begin to decrease, which will lead to a decline in the elasticity of the skin. That reduced elasticity will result in the dullness of skin and wrinkles.

Several of our extracts benefit the skin’s elastin. They all contribute toward elastin production by the skin in one way or the other. There are several studies available which explain how the anti-aging extracts increase the production of elastin or decrease the destruction of elastin with aging.

  • Percec said that using the skin formulations containing anti-oxidants and vitamin C and E, help to fight the cell damage from free radicals, which are the molecules that injure the cells and cause inflammation. Thus, it will lead to the destruction of collagen and elastin in the skin due to free radicals. Our extracts (green tea, soybean, and hempseed) which contains anti-oxidants and Vitamin C and E, so they will play an important role in decreasing the destruction of collagen and elastin.
  • Hale said Retinol (Vitamin A) improves the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, thereby increasing the production of collagen and elastin. Our extracts (green tea, soybean and hemp seed) which contain Vitamin A.
  • One study state that extracts exfoliate the skin, and this exfoliation stimulate the production of collagen and elastin which are responsible for maintaining the tone, texture, tightness, firmness, and smoothness of the skin.
  • Enzymes have a hand in making the skin appear healthy as they enhance the productivity of the extracts present in the solvent. The upper layer of skin is mostly composed of dead cells and contains a specific type of protein named keratin. Enzymes present in anti-aging creams degrade the keratin protein to reveal the smooth skin underneath. This whole process overall reduces the destruction of collagen and elastin.
  • There is considerable research on the effectiveness and improvement of elastin from soybean extracts and dill seed extracts. Soybean extract has phytoestrogens, genistein, and daidzein, which stimulate the production of elastin and collagen. Dill seed extract which contains a biomolecule that encourages the expression of an enzyme (LOXL) which catalyzes (speeds up) the cross-linking of two components of the protein.

Several of our extracts possess bioactive compounds that benefit elastin.

REFERENCES

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Why water is overall best solvent? What does it extract? 

Article at a Glance

•Water is a universal, polar, and ideal solvent.

•Water is one of the only compounds that can penetrate plant cell membranes, which is perfect for extraction.

•Water is inert, non-toxic, non-irritant, and non-reactant to our skin.

•Botanical extracts contain highly sensitive and thermolabile (readily destroyed or deactivated by heat) bioactive substances which are preserved by extraction with water.

•Water extraction prevents the denaturation (killing) of natural active elements of plants.

•Solvents like alcohol destroy the usefulness of bioactive substances of botanical extracts through denaturation.

•We at Ant-Aging Extracts use water and glycerine as solvents for maintaining the potency, efficacy, and usefulness of bioactive material.

 

Water is also known as the Universal solvent because water has the capability to dissolve several chemical substances. It is one of the great properties of water that it retains the efficacy (success) and potency of bioactive natural constituents of an extract. Water is an ideal solvent, and it has all those qualities which a perfect solvent should have like water is inert, cost-effective and non-toxic, non-irritant and non-reactant to our skin as well as to chemical substances. Water is a polar solvent, because of the availability of positive charge (hydrogen) as well as negative charge (oxygen). And due to this polarity water dissolve more substances than any other solvent. Despite its name as a universal solvent, it is not possible that every single compound can be dissolved by water. There are some compounds like non-polar substances (hydrophobic or water-hating or lipophilic or lipid-loving) such as fats, oils, waxes, etc. are not going to be dissolved by water.

With particular reference to the botanical extracts, it is the beauty of water as a solvent that it extracts the active substances (or more appropriately bioactive substances) without denaturing them, unlike of other harmful solvents such as alcohol. Denaturation is the process in which proteins /enzymes /hormones /nucleic acid /vitamins etc. are destroyed by the application of external stress like strong acid or organic solvent like alcohol.  Alcohol denatures botanical cells by bursting the cell.  

We at Anti-Aging Extracts use water and glycerine as solvents for our botanical extracts to preserve the efficacy and usefulness of bioactive compounds. We use a multi-stage extraction process, a combination of maceration, digestion, mixing, pumping, optimum temperatures for the extraction with water. We take steps to protect the thermolabile bioactive substances like enzymes, proteins, vitamins, etc. Thermolabile substances are those which are heat sensitive or destroyed by excessive heat. Maceration is the extraction technique in which there is just the soaking or immersing of plant parts in a liquid (usually water) in an airtight container for a specified time at room temperature (without applying heat). Digestion uses gentle heat, well under 106° Fahrenheit. Thus, conclusively, we can say that water preserves the usefulness of value-added constituents of botanical extracts without denaturing them unlike organic solvents such as alcohol.

REFERENCES

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USEFULNESS OF PEPTIDES IN BOTANICAL EXTRACTS

Article at a Glance

•Peptides are the compounds made up of two or more amino acids. They may be natural or synthetic.

•Four different categories of peptides that have a role in cosmetic preparations are signal, carrier, enzyme, and neurotransmitter inhibitor peptides.

•Peptides have a significant role in the skincare and anti-aging process, and they produce collagen and cell signaling pathways.

•Palmityl peptides (oligo, tri, tetra, and Penta categories) play an essential role in collagen production and skincare.

 

Peptides are natural or synthetic compounds comprising two or more amino acids joined through an amide formation. There are four different types of peptides, including signal peptides, carrier peptides, neurotransmitter inhibitor peptides, and enzyme inhibitor peptides. With particular reference to the skin, each is discussed below.

Signal peptides are added to skin cosmetics because they can stimulate skin fibroblasts to produce more collagen, elastin, and other proteins in the dermis matrix. The increase of these structural proteins makes the skin look firmer and more complete. GHK (Glycyl-Histidyl-Lysine) is an example of a signal peptide and was one of the first peptides discovered. Wound healing with this peptide was observed for the first time in the mid-1980s, which shows that this technology is relatively new.

Carrier peptides deliver trace elements, such as copper and magnesium, that help with wound repair and enzymatic processes. It has been shown that these trace elements improve the synthesis of collagen, the elasticity of the skin, and the general appearance of the skin. For example, a copper complex is composed of amino acids glycine, histamine, and lysine and is used in the treatment of diabetic neuropathic ulcers. These are sometimes referred to as “penetrating peptides” or “membrane transduction peptides.”

Neurotransmitter inhibitors are added to cosmetics to reduce wrinkles because they inhibit the release of acetylcholine by a variety of chemical interactions. The most extreme neurotransmitter includes the Curare poison and the botulism toxin. Less invasive versions have been developed for use on the skin and the hypothesis is that they relax the muscles of facial expression, which causes wrinkles to relax. It has been shown that these neurotransmitter inhibitor peptides reduce certain types of wrinkles by approximately 30% (in vivo studies) In vivo is done with live cells, in vitro is done in the laboratory.

Enzyme inhibitor peptides can reduce the breakdown of collagen and other proteins by interfering with the processes that break down those proteins. For example, some enzymes (like MMP or matrix metalloprotease) degrade structural proteins such as collagen. A peptide derived from rice proteins can inhibit the activity of the MMP enzyme and thus keep more collagen around. Peptides derived from soybean proteins can also act to inhibit enzymes, specifically proteases.

The reason why peptides are used in anti-aging skincare products is due to their ability to increase collagen production. Collagen is the protein that gives skin a firm, smooth, youthful appearance. Natural and environmental factors, like sun exposure and free radicals, cause collagen to degrade over time. That will result in lines, wrinkles, and sagging skin. Therefore, since peptides can increase collagen production, they are able to minimize these signs of aging. While many clinical studies have proven this to be true, the mechanism(s) by which peptides accomplish this is still unclear. One theory suggests that peptides work through signaling. Cells can communicate with each other to coordinate certain actions, which is known as “cell-signaling”. Peptides can mimic specific cell-signaling processes. Specifically, peptides that are used in skincare products mimic the same peptides that can be found when collagen is broken down.

According to research from the National Institutes of Health (NIH), when collagen is degraded, it produces peptides that signal skin cells to generate more collagen. Synthetic peptides have been developed that can mimic these naturally occurring peptides, thus causing your skin to warn that collagen is deteriorating, and thus in the result, there is the production of peptides. One study published in 2007 states that Palmitoyl oligopeptide can significantly stimulate collagen production in human fibroblasts. Firmer skin can be seen when palmitoyl oligopeptide is used twice daily for a significant period (about six months). Tripeptide-1 is a type of synthetic peptide and categorized as a messenger peptide because it works by sending messages or signals to cells. Palmitoyl pentapeptide-3 has been extensively studied for its ability to stimulate new production of types I and II collagen as well as fibronectin, all of which are important for the firmness and elasticity of the skin. According to a 2017 publication in Cosmetics, palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7 serves as an anti-inflammatory after exposure to the sun’s harmful UV rays.

We at Anti-Aging Extracts use different botanical herbs which contains significant levels of peptides responsible for the skincare, like green tea and soybean contains palmitoyl1 oligopeptide/tetrapeptide and tripeptide which are responsible for the production of collagen. Peptides are sensitive bioactive compounds which are destroyed either by the excessive heat of extraction or by denaturation caused by certain organic solvents such as alcohol. We use the water and glycerine mixture as the solvents which are entirely inert, non-toxic, non-irritant and not harmful for the value-added constituents of our extracts.

REFERENCES

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BENEFITS OF TEA (WHITE, GREEN AND BLACK)

Article at a Glance

•Tea is the most common beverage used in the world with its different unique health benefits.

•White, Green, and Black contain the ingredients for tremendous health benefits like antioxidant, remedy for weight loss, healthy heart, mind, and skin.

•Besides, taste tea is beneficial for maintaining the fitness of the body.

•Researchers are so curious about solid evidence of the anti-cancer activity related to tea.

 

A plant called Camellia Sinensis produces the leaves and buds that are commonly known as Tea. The most common beverage consumed in the world, second to water. Tea has been an important beverage for thousands of years and has been a considerable part of the culture in countries around the world, forming major parts of ceremonies, trade routes, and even starting revolutions. But Tea isn’t just appreciated for its excellent taste and worldwide appeal; it also offers numerous health benefits like as an antioxidant, reduces the risk of heart attack and stroke, remedy for weight loss, essential for bones, etc.

The Tea has observed as an important to good health, happiness, and wisdom in the East since a long time, so it caught the attention of researchers in the west, who are discovering the many health benefits of different types of Tea. Studies have found that some teas may help in the prevention of cancer, heart disease, and diabetes. It boosts weight loss, lower cholesterol, and bring about mental alertness. It also contains antimicrobial qualities.

American Dietetic Association spokeswoman Katherine Tallmadge says “There doesn’t seem to be a disadvantage or problem to Tea, I think it’s a great substitute to coffee drinking. Mainly Tea has less caffeine. It’s pretty well established that the compounds in Tea and their flavonoids are good for the heart and may reduce cancer.” 

What are flavonoids, and how do they benefit skin?  Flavonoids contain high concentrations of antioxidants that help neutralize free radicals.

What are polyphenols? “The polyphenols discussed in this review article show significant anti-inflammatory, antioxidant and anti-DNA damaging effects”. 9

All teas originate from the same plant. There are several types of Tea, but the following types seem to be the Tea of attention for researchers due to their health benefits.

  1. White Tea is the least processed and strongest of teas for anti-aging products. White Tea has the best chance of the teas in containing bioactive anti-aging properties.
  2. Green Tea high in polyphenols. Typically heat dried or roasted, thus denatured. Green Tea will not contain bioactive properties but has many excellent anti-aging properties via polyphenols.
  3. Black Tea, the most widely consumed Tea, is high in antioxidants. Black Tea is heat dried well past denaturization, 106° Fahrenheit.   Black Tea will not contain bioactive properties for anti-aging products.

Benefits of White Tea: Listed below are possible health benefits linked with white Tea.

  • One study presented that white Tea has the most effective anti-cancer properties compared to more processed teas.
  • White Tea is the least processed of the teas and has the most advantageous properties for anti-aging products.
  • It helps in weight loss.
  • It supports the treatment of Acne.
  • White Tea can be beneficial in pregnancy tenure.
  • White Tea contains a variety of active Catechins for fighting chronic diseases like cancer.
  • It improves hair and skin health.
  • It is helpful in the treatment of diabetes and heart issues.
  • It enhances energy, stimulates the brain, and gives alertness.
  • It helps to reduce inflammation.
  • It improves liver and kidney health.
  • It improves reproductive health.
  • It’s beneficial for hypothyroidism.
  • It’s beneficial for improving memory.
  • It’s a good anti-aging remedy.
  • It helps in the digestion of food.

Benefits of Green Tea: Listed below are the possible health benefits related to green Tea.

  • Green Tea is supported in the prevention of cancer. According to the National Cancer Institute, the polyphenols in Tea have been shown to decrease tumor growth in the laboratory.
  • Green Tea is beneficial for heart disease. A 2006 study published in the Journal of the American Medical Association concluded that green tea consumption is associated with reduced mortality due to all causes, including cardiovascular disease.
  • Green Tea is mood stabilizer and has anti-aging properties (due to its antioxidant effects).
  • Green Tea plays a major contribution to decrease cholesterol and fats.
  • Drinking green Tea regularly relates to a reduced risk of stroke.
  • Green Tea is beneficial for type 2 diabetes.
  • Green Tea is clinically essential for weight loss.
  • Green Tea is much helpful in preventing inflammatory skin disease.
  • Green Tea can enhance our brain’s cognitive functions, mainly working memory.
  • Green Tea might help prevent dental cavities, stress, chronic fatigue, treating skin conditions, and improving arthritis by reducing inflammation.

 

Benefits of Black Tea: Listed below are the significant benefits of black Tea.

  • Black Tea is an excellent option as it is low-calorie, a non-sweetened beverage with less caffeine than coffee or energy drinks.
  • It has a robust and unique flavor and contains plenty of antioxidants, which is better for mental health and decreased blood pressure.
  • LDL and HDL are two types of lipoproteins that carry cholesterol throughout the body. Too much LDL (Bad cholesterol) in the body can increase the risk of heart disease and stroke. Studies have found that black Tea may help reduce LDL levels and increases the levels of HDL (good cholesterol).
  • High blood pressure can cause many health complications. Drinking black Tea regularly may help decrease systolic and diastolic blood pressure.
  • Stroke is the second leading cause of death globally. Fortunately, in many cases, it can be prevented. Studies have found that black Tea may help reduce the risk of stroke
  • Black Tea to helps improve the use of insulin and lower blood sugar. So, it is beneficial for diabetic patients.
  • Black Tea contains polyphenols, which may help fight cancer cells in the body. Although the use of black Tea will not cure cancer, it may help decrease cancer cell development.
  • Black Tea can help improve focus due to its content of caffeine and an amino acid called L-threonine. This amino acid increases alpha activity in the brain, which can help improve concentration and alertness.

REFERENCES

GKP 10
GKP 11
GKP 12
GKP 10

A CASE TO AVOID TINCTURES & POWDERED EXTRACTS IN SKINCARE PRODUCTS

By William Soukup, formulator, Owner of Anti-Aging Extracts LLC.

The success of your product line depends on how well you formulate your products.  Poor product performance may reduce its competitiveness with most brands or require considerably higher marketing budgets.  Also, formulations can be made to provide your customers with the product results they seek; thus, your marketing budget should bring better results.

An important concept to understand in skincare formulations is the difference between denatured and non-denatured botanical extracts. Denaturization is where the extract is exposed to heat over 106° Fahrenheit, 40° Celsius, or used alcohol as the solvent, other than glycerin.  Denaturization kills biological properties in the extract.  Non-denatured extracts provide a multitude of synergistic anti-aging skincare benefits with retained proteins, amino acids, peptides, enzymes, and natural vitamins.

Powders may or may not be denatured.  Most powdered extract manufacturers use alcohol as the solvent to extract the plant properties, which then are dried via heat or vacuum. The alcohol typically isn’t noted or conveyed on the product ingredients.  If alcohol was used, traces of solvents are likely present in the extract, thus posing possible skin irritation problems for your customers.  Cosmetic manufacturers who formulate with powdered extracts may well not know that the extracts are denatured and provide little or no real benefits to their products. For cosmeceuticals, non-denatured extracts offer so many more benefits than denatured extracts.  Do powdered extracts provide desirable skincare properties?  In most cases, yes. The formulator must understand the desired compounds and properties they seek when using denatured extracts.

Tinctures are made using 25-90% alcohol as the solvent. All tinctures are denatured and will have lost their biological properties.  No tincture for skincare products could be considered organic or natural, even if they used organic plant material — alcohol is not a natural product.  Alcohol has a sterilizing action that kills bacteria and contaminating organisms. The sterilization action of alcohol is not biased and negatively affects the natural plant material properties. Herbal products processed with alcohol will contain many extracted constituents and compounds that have been rendered useless by alcohol’s denaturing action.  Tinctures will not contain water-soluble vitamins B & C. 

STRENGTH OF TINCTURES

If the alcohol is evaporated off, most tinctures are less than 1% concentration.

Considerations When Purchasing Tinctures or Powdered Extracts for Your Skin Care Products

There are so many things to consider when purchasing powdered extracts for your skincare products, including: 

Did the manufacturer use alcohol as the solvent? If yes, the product is denatured, and there would be a likelihood of alcohol residue in the extract.

Was the extracted material ever exposed to temperatures over 106° Fahrenheit, 40° Celsius?

Much of the performance and success of your product depends on the extracts you choose.  Denatured products will not contain highly beneficial and synergistic plant properties such as proteins, enzymes, peptides, and natural vitamins.

Do you need a denatured extract in your natural skincare products?  No, there are no benefits to denaturization in skincare products other than known isolated compounds the cosmetic formulator desires. Denatured plant extracts contain undetermined content of dead biological material that could potentially affect the skin.

GKP 11

Tincture Method Extraction V/S Cold Process Extraction

Created by Dr. Razak clinical Pharmacy scientist

Bill Soukup formulator

                            Article at a Glance

•A Tincture is a concentrated herbal extract dissolved usually in an alcoholic solvent.

•An Extract is dissolved in non-alcoholic solvents such as water, glycerine, vinegar, etc. Thus, an extract is made through cold process extraction.

•Tincture method employs alcohols which preserve the preparations through denaturation, which kills the value-added constituents, leading to decreased potency and effectiveness for anti-aging products.

•Cold process extractions employ non-alcoholic solvents like water, glycerine, etc., which are safe, economical, and beneficial for preserving the herbal constituents.

•Alcohol is mainly used as a solvent for medicinal purposes, while non-alcoholic solvents are used for the cosmetic industry.

DIFFERENCE

There is a little difference between extracts and tinctures but with distinctive pros and cons. Following are the differences between extracts/cold extraction and tinctures/tincture extraction.

  • All the tinctures are extracts, but all extracts are not tinctures.
  • Tinctures are the subsets of extracts. We can say that a tincture is a concentrated herbal extract dissolved usually in an alcoholic solvent. While an extract is dissolved in non-alcoholic solvents such as water, glycerine, vinegar, etc., thus an extract is made through cold process extraction.
  • Basis of extracted material itself is another difference.
  • Traditionally, an extract is made from dried plant material as the starting material. While tincture is usually, but not always, made from fresh plant material taken straight from the field or source and processed without drying. Usually, tincture extraction is processed within a few hours of harvest to avoid deterioration or loss of the active ingredients.
  • Tinctures can be prepared from traditional extracts using the alcoholic as a solvent. The typical solvent is ethanol (ethyl alcohol) at 25-75%. Extracts are not usually made from tinctures, but if needed, then alcohol is mixed with water, vinegar, glycerine, etc.

PROS OF TINCTURE EXTRACTION

  • Very fast extraction.
  • It employs alcohol as a solvent, which is a disinfectant, so it protects the product from microbial contamination.
  • Alcohol is used to isolate desired compounds.
  • Is better suited for medicinal purposes.
  • Alcohol is an excellent preservative. So, it is used as a solvent for a wide variety of medicines, cosmetics, and food coloring and flavoring.
  • Alcohol evaporates faster as compared to solvents used in cold process extraction.

CONS OF TINCTURE EXTRACTION

  • Alcohol is flammable.
  • Alcohol is highly toxic to living cells.
  • Alcohol will denature proteins, amino acids, and enzymes.
  • Alcohol denatures the value-added constituents of plant material, so it will lead to the overall reduction in the efficacy and potency of the final product ready to be used.
  • Cheaper grade alcohols contain several impurities which can damage alcohol when it goes for metabolism.
  • Alcohol needs to be listed as an ingredient in cosmetics.
  • It is non-economical extraction as compared to cold process extraction.
  • Alcohol has a sterilizing action that kills bacteria and contaminating organisms. The sterilization action of alcohol is not biased, however, and affects the biological usability of what’s being isolated. Herbal products processed with alcohol will contain many extracted constituents and compounds that have been rendered useless by alcohol’s denaturing action.
  • Will not contain water-soluble vitamins B and C.
  • Will not contain proteins, amino acids, peptides, and enzymes, all of which are very important in anti-aging products.

References

GKP 12

What does glycerin (glycerine) extract? Why it is a great product for extracts? Benefits of glycerine?

Article at a Glance

•Glycerin is inert, non-toxic, non-irritant, non-reactant, and safe solvent for herbal extraction.

•Glycerin extracts several bioactive components of botanical herbs like vitamins, enzymes, waxes, proteins, resins, amino acids, etc.

•Unlike organic solvents like alcohol, glycerin doesn’t cause any deterioration of essential chemical constituents by denaturation (kill or sterilize).

•We at Anti-Aging Extracts use water or glycerin or a mixture of both for the extraction of our herbal extracts for maximum potency and bioactivity.

 

Healthful compounds in herbs or botanicals can be isolated from the cellulose and plant material when they are combined with a solvent. The desired plant parts dissolve within the solvent. The selection of solvent is essential when there is the extraction of botanical herbs or extracts. Because herbal extracts contain highly sensitive components of interest like enzymes, proteins, resins, vitamins, etc., use of organic solvents such as alcohol can deteriorate the essential bioactive components by denaturation. Solvents like glycerin, water or mixture of both are the solvents of interest for herbal extraction for making antiaging cosmetics.

SOLVENT POWER and SOLUBILITY have caused glycerine to be regarded as one of the most valuable compounding ingredients for the formulator. Besides functioning as a suitable solvent for the active principles in a formulation, the natural compatibility of glycerine with many other substances affords the formulator a wide choice of ingredients.

The-compatibility of glycerine with a wide range of other materials has been established through extended use and empirical tests. Glycerine is a highly compatible material, especially in cosmetic and pharmaceutical products which may incorporate many compounds of different chemical structure and properties.

Glycerine may be used on every part of the epidermis, including mucous membranes. When diluted to a concentration below 50%, it acts as an emollient and demulcent, finding essential applications in ointments and lotions. Preparations for the most sensitive areas of the body-antiseptic, vaginal, nasal, analgesic. Dermatological, and burn ointments and jellies-are commonly made of water-soluble bases compounded with glycerine. Glycerine, too, is one of the most widely used ingredients in medical prescriptions. Only water may exceed glycerine in its range of applications.

A study published in the Journal of Acta Dermato-Venereologica evaluated glycerin’s ability to make the skin smoother. Results show that glycerin gradually improved skin texture and suppleness, and continued to do so even after it was no longer applied, indicating that it has lasting effects despite a slow onset of action

Glycerin is a safe and effective preservative and aseptic (free from contamination caused by bacteria, viruses or other harmful microorganisms) agent when produced according to stringent standards that use the highest quality ingredients available.

There are several benefits of glycerin:

  • Glycerin is inert, non-toxic, non-irritant and non-reactant solvent.
  • Glycerin is aseptic and is therefore not harmful. It is a safe and natural preservative for botanical extracts.
  • Glycerin harnesses various herbal and botanical biomolecules and microorganisms that would otherwise be destroyed due to the sterilizing and denaturing property of alcohol.
  • Herbs and botanicals have several desirable components within their cells. Some of these, such as enzymes, etc., are only valuable in their live state. Alcohol sterilizes and denatures, a process that affects living cells and kills them. Vegetable glycerin preserves aromatics, enzymes, and polysaccharides.
  • Unlike alcohol, glycerin encapsulates extracted constituents and compounds within its molecular matrix. This is beneficial in that it reduces ingredient precipitation (meaning that the components suspended in glycerin stay there) and slows oxidation.
  • Vegetable glycerin is the only solvent that preserves the natural taste factors which are essential to the efficacy of an herb.

To preserve the biological viability and synergy of a botanical’s extracted constituents’ glycerin is preferred for extraction of all aromatic-based compounds and polysaccharides, as it does not denature or render inert these highly complex molecule structures, which though these compounds may retain their aroma/taste quality, any denaturing (as alcohol intrinsically does) will substantially reduce or nullify the therapeutic quality of aromatic-based compounds. The biological viability preserving and synergy are sparing effects of glycerin also apply to proteins, certain vitamins, enzymes, and other ‘co-factor’ constituents that are glycerin extracted from botanicals.

We at Anti-Aging Extracts do not use the tincture method, which requires high heat, but the following is pertinent information on glycerin/glycerites. When glycerin is utilized in a dynamic contemporary non-tincturing based innovative processing methodology it has been shown to not only extract a wide range of compounds, it is widely accepted, both in literature and innovative applications, to extract many constituents and compounds previously thought not able to do and to extract those constituents and compounds at high concentrations and potency. This includes most alkaloids, glycosides, volatile oils, waxes, resins, gums, balsam, sugars (especially as non-denatured linked and cross-linked polysaccharides), vitamins, and minerals, all with none of the denaturing and inert rendering effects alcohol possesses.

Glycerin works in tandem with water in our solvents because it is natural alcohol, that doesn’t denature (kill) the bioactive (living components) and can, therefore, be used to dissolve many compounds that water cannot dissolve. We use a mixture of water and glycerin as a solvent because it is safe, and versatile as far as the dissolution of botanical extracts (and other components of antiaging) is concerned. We also use this mixture because it increases the life of all the beauty products. Water-glycerin mixture is better as a solvent than water-alcohol because even though they are both valid, glycerin is better than alcohol because it preserves herbal and botanical microorganisms and bioactive properties of the plant, while alcohol, on the other hand, kills many of these microorganisms, proteins, and enzymes, which are necessary for the effective working of antiaging extracts.

REFERENCES

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